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fuel plate 3KGSK setup
I really wish I understood how the 7100 injection pump and all of the associated controls (AFC, Fuel plate, gov springs, governor lever, star wheel, turbo wastegate, etc) work, but I don't. That said, I am hoping one of you 12V gurus can give me some advice. I recently installed a #10 plate and 3KGSK. The plate is slid about 1/8" forward from stock, the AFC housing is all the way forward, and the starwheel is about 3 turns from max forward. After installing the gov springs, the idle was the same and the truck was dead on power until about 1500rpm. I called Piers and they said to go another click tighter on the gov spring adjustments. Did that and the truck runs real good now. It will rev to 2800 or so, boost is at 32 psi, EGTs seem to be good but I have not towed my boat yet, and it only blows smoke above 3/4 throttle.
My question is, is this good for this set up or will any fine tuning make it better. Like someone said in this forum. A little bit of power just makes you want more. How will sliding the fuel plate all of the way forward affect performance, how does moving the AFC housing foeward or back affect things, and besides reducing smoke, does the starwheel reduce power also. One more thing, if adjusting the governor springs one more click helped so much initially, will another click make the power come on at a lower rpm.
Sorry for being so long winded but I know someone out there has been here, done this and can save me some wasted underhood time. It is REAL hot and humid here in Alabama.
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Mike- 1994 3500, 208,000 miles, 5-speed, 3.54, #10 fuel plate, 3KGSK, KDP tabbed, Di-Pricol EGT and boost gauges, Kitty gone, Warp Speed 4" Turbo Back exhaust system, AFE Mega Cannon.
Son's truck- 1998.5 2500 4X4, 61,000, auto, 3.54, Dipercol fuel guage
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