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3 gauge install write up...
Old 10-18-2005, 07:09 PM   #1 (permalink)
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NavyDood's Avatar
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: DFW
Posts: 186
3 gauge install write up...

Here is a write up I did when I installed my Isspro EV gauges, with pics. I got everything from kensperformancesolutions. Hopefully this will help anybody in the future installing their own gauges.

I had a heck of a time deciding what mounting method I was going to go with. I use the cubby under the climate controls way too much. Overhead would have been ok; I just didn’t want to have to glance up all the time. There wasn’t anyway I was going to lose the grab handle with a 3 gauge pillar mount. The single or the dbl steering mount was way out of the question. It covers up too much of the dash for me. I finally opted for the dash mount. The dash mount comes in black and that wasn't going to fly. I went to the local Dodge dealer and got the Mopar interior only paint. The A-pillar's actual color is Light Taupe and the darker dash top is Taupe. The Dodge part# of the Taupe is 5003521-AA. After lightly sandblasting the Dash Pod, I sprayed 8 coats of paint (which go on like water and dry almost instantly) then 3 coats of Acrylic Clear. To get the top dash panel off, slide a 1" wide putty knife under the lip and pry up all the way across. The metal clips will release. After all the clips are popped, lift up slightly and pull back so the forward clips release. Lay out where the dash pod will attach and then drill for mounting. AutoMeter makes the dash pod. One thing disturbing... The aluminum-mounting bracket for the pod has 4 threaded inserts on it for mounting purposes. Two screws mount the bracket to the dash. The other two screws attach the pod to the bracket. The inserts are 8-32 thread size. They sent regular sheet metal screws for mounting it. I was like, "Huh?” I ran to the local Ace Hardware and got two stainless 8-32 button head screws for the outside, and regular steel for the underside. I used connectors on the +pos and -neg wires for the gauge lights so it would be easier to work on if the need arises. First pic lightly sand blasted. Second pic everything wired and ready to be mounted. Third pic wires coming through the top of the dash. I used a 3/4" spade drill to drill the hole. It made for a very easy wire run. Fourth and fifth pic mounted. Fifth pic night shot.













Next came the +pos wiring for the gauges. You want them on only when the dash lights are on, and dim when the dash lights dim. The headlight light switch pops right off with ease. You need to splice into the orange with black tracer. Problem is, there are 3 of those wires. Here you can see the wire you need to splice into.



The control boxes (Pyro and Tranny Temp) require +12v. Find a +pos power source that comes on when the key is turned on unless you want the gauge control boxes always powered. The cig lighter is perfect for this since the key needs to be on for it to be powered (The auxiliary +12v power connector always has power even with the key off). When using the cig lighter for the power source, splice into the pink wire. Remove the climate control/radio panel by removing the screw behind the plastic hook just to the right of the climate controls, then pull gently. The whole front panel pops right off. First pic is the splice and the second pic where I mounted the two control boxes. I used an inline fuse for the control boxes with a 2a fuse. The metal brace right below the fuse link is perfect for a common ground.



__________________
- 2004 2500 QC, SWB, 4x4, 48re, Smarty Jr, HOG 4" T-304 Turbo Back, Self made PSMBuick style intake with Amsoil Drop In, Isspro Pyro/Boost/Tranny Temp, Quadzilla RPG w/fuel pressure option
- B&W Hide-A-Ball w/5th wheel Companion
- 06 Pilgrim Legends 30RE2SLF-5

Last edited by NavyDood; 06-10-2009 at 03:12 AM..
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