OK, I’ve tried to take a more scientific approach to this over the years and just wanted to see what the experts are doing and maybe get some pointers.
First, I've taken number one injector out and with a mic and flat edge I scribed the gear cover for TDC and 180 out. I use a mirror to line the marks up and always bar the engine in the direction of travel. If I go past, I take it back past and bring it back up to account for gear lash. to take it a step further, I installed a pointer and marked the dampener from below so I can see the marks as I bar the engine from below (my twins inhibit the ability to bar it from above and I don’t like the ratchet on the alternator trick)
Are we good there? Any tips?
Now, we've established I have it at TDC/180 out as precisely a possible each time (i hope). Next I set the valves in the order the manual states. This is where it gets foggy for me. I’ve always used .010 for intake and .020 for exhaust. I use a feeler gauge and set them to be firm with the feeler in place. My assumption here is that in a perfect world this is the spec for valve adjustment not just the range the manual tells us to use .060-.015 intake for example.
Any ideas here, sound good, way off base, watch ya got for me here?
My thinking is that I try to duplicate with the verified scribed marks, exact timing mark placement taking care to account for gear lash and then setting to the prescribed “perfect world” adjustment (.010 and .020)
Has anyone looked at this in this way, or better yet, have you played with valve adjustment to effect lift and what results have you seen there and using what measurement?
my thinkins is, we have solid tappets so we are not taking into account any preload like in the hydraulic world. The best I can gather is we just need to focus on maximum lift to achieve the best results out of the camshaft.
Discuss….thanks
Todd
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'06 Silverado 2500HD, CC/SB, 4WD, Dura/Alli
'91 Mustang Notch, 408, T88 blow thru, C4
Linear Mode
