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Bad ball joints after 10K, what gives?
Old 03-17-2008, 04:45 AM   #1 (permalink)
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Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Florida Ma
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Bad ball joints after 10K, what gives?

I have read many posts about premature ball joint failure, some repeatedly failing at less 10k and others lasting 170K plus miles. I have owned 4x4's since the 70's and I have never had what I would consider unacceptable service from a ball joint, tie-rod or u-joint that was grease-able and that was also greased regularly. Any parts that I have replaced were replaced with the grease-able style and have not failed again during my ownership.
Is it a quality issue with parts or does it have to do with grease type, maintaince schedule and or use?
Or are people being taken for a ride???
My personal preference for chassis grease (suspension and u-joints) is Moly fortified grease. I found this to cure a tendency for my then new 1990 W250 CTD steering to not self center after making a L or R turn.
We may all learn something if we compare notes with details such as the;
Replacement brand, Moog, TRW, Spicer or other
Is it grease-able yes or no?
How often is it greased?
What type of grease is used?
What type of service or use does the vehicle see?
Maybe someone that's a wiz with computers could create a survey that could tally responses.
The results of this post could open some eyes and save members considerable money.

Tim
__________________
1999 24V 2500 Quad Cab 4X4 4:10:1 LSD, P-pumped, twins, Pac brake, 5 inch exaust, 12 hole injectors, Suncoast stage 5 with 5 disk converter, Kore suspension, Weld Racing Wheels, Est. hp 600 @ 60 psi

1990 (bought new) W250 4X4 12V NV4500 3:07:1 with 235K 78 mph in 4th, 5th???
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