Dowel Pin Pictures

[HEMI®Dart]

Thanks to TDR member "bboxall" for posting these again for us.

http://home.chattanooga.net/~bboxall...ummins_001.jpg
http://home.chattanooga.net/~bboxall...ummins_002.jpg
http://home.chattanooga.net/~bboxall...ummins_003.jpg
http://home.chattanooga.net/~bboxall...ummins_004.jpg
http://home.chattanooga.net/~bboxall...ummins_005.jpg
http://home.chattanooga.net/~bboxall...ummins_006.jpg


Here is the Dodge Dealer Repair Order: http://home.chattanooga.net/~bboxall/repair_1.jpg

Original post: My 1995 2500 4x4 12V 5 speed w/80,100 mi had a major problem. One of the alignment dowels which aligns the timing gear housing to the front of the block came out while driving. It fell down on the cam gear and then broke the timing housing. The gear chewed the pin some and then a piece of the pin went between the crank gear and the timing gear. This killed the front crank journal and the front cam bearing.
Dodge of Chattanooga is putting new Cummins long block in under warranty. Excellent service but disappointed that it happened to my prized possession.





[This message has been edited by HEMI®Dart (edited 04-23-2001).]

[Andy Redmond]

Stinks doesn't it! My 95 did the same thing in the same place, but fortunately the pin blew a piece of the gear housing out where yours is cracked..and didn't wreck the gear train.

The poor DC tech took five days to change it for 13.5 hrs of flat rate! A hard way to make an easy living!

Glad they are taking care of you!

[R.ebel]

HEMI®Dart, Thanks for digging up these gruesome looking pictures, definatley not for the faint of heart

On a more serious note, looking at http://home.chattanooga.net/~bboxall...ummins_001.jpg is the hole depicted as 'A' the normal location of the dowel pin?

['956Wheel]

WHAT A SICK FEELING! But at least it was paid for! I think I will pull the cover and check the pins bore...peen if needed! If that thing went munch...so much for saving up for a TT!

Thanks for posting those great pics, does anyone know how fast the Cummins was cranking when it munched?

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9535hundred

[HEMI®Dart]

Rebel,

I'm pretty sure "A" is where the dowel pin was.

[R.ebel]

How does this sound for preventative fix? Take a large fender washer modify it to fit under the bolt that is just to the right and below of the dowel pin hole, leaving part of the fender washer long enough to block the hole off and prevent the pin from falling out.

[This message has been edited by R.ebel (edited 04-24-2001).]

[barrfishe]

I would also like to thank you for the interesting pictures and information! This type of information is part of why I joined

[PUMPERDUDE]

Excellent idea Rebel.If only it wasn't so hard to get too.

[R.ebel]

Pumperdude, To gain access to the killer pin for this fix, I think the only thing that has to be removed is the gearcase cover. Someone correct me if I'm wrong because I've never torn into the gearcase.

[mikepvg]

HEMI®Dart:
WOW, that pin makes me nervous.
Is DC warranting "ALL" these?
Or did you have some sort of extended plan on your vehicle?
Mike



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94 2500HD 5sp 4.10LSD 4X4 RWAL w/GearVendor OD, K&N Oval w/ Pre-Filter, Straight Exhaust, Geno's Fumotovalve, AW-Direct Idle Controller, DiPricol Boost/Pyro/Fuel, Mag-Hytec Rear, 124K miles. Halon Protected, NRA Member. V1.

[This message has been edited by mikepvg (edited 04-26-2001).]

[R.ebel]

If your game to check on your dowel pin here you go..........


Timing Cover
Service and Repair

REMOVAL

1.Remove fan drive assembly.
2.Remove the fan belt.
3.Remove belt tensioner.
4.Remove oil fill tube and adaptor.
5.Remove vibration damper.
6.Remove the bolts that hold the gear cover to the gear housing.
7.Gently pry the cover away from the housing, taking care not to mar the gasket surfaces.
8.Clean the old gasket residue from the back of the gear cover and front of the gear housing.

INSTALLATION

1.Lubricate the front gear train with clean engine oil.
2.Thoroughly clean the front seal area of the crankshaft. The seal lip and the sealing surface on the crankshaft must be free from all oil residue to prevent seal leaks.
3.Apply a bead of Loctite 277,or equivalent to the outside diameter of the seal.
4.Install the seal into the rear of the cover using a plastic hammer and the alignment/installation tool provided in the seal kit
to prevent damage to the seal carrier, hit the alignment/installation tool alternately at the 12, 3, 6 and 9 o'clock positions.
5.Install the pilot from the seal kit onto the crankshaft.
6.Using the pilot as an alignment tool, install the cover and a new gasket.
7.Install the cover bolts and tighten to 24 Nm (18 ft. lbs.) torque. Remove pilot tool.
8.Install the oil fill tube and mounting bolts. Tighten the bolts to 43 Nm (32 ft. lbs.) torque.
9.Install the vibration damper. DO NOT tighten the bolts to the correct torque value at this time.
10.Install the belt tensioner. Tighten the mounting bolts to 43 Nm (32 ft. lbs.) torque.
11.Raise the belt tensioner to install the belt.
12.Tighten the vibration damper bolts to 125 Nm (92 ft. lbs.) torque. Use an engine barring tool to keep the engine from
rotating during tightening operation.
13.Install the fan drive assembly.

[Joseph Donnelly]

As I have posted some time ago, unless the dowel has moved, you can't tell much by looking at the end of it. You have to use wooden dowels to hold all the lifters up (after removing the rockers and pushrods) and pull out the camshaft and its pressed on gear, if you want to remove the gear case. Usually the injection pump and vacuum pump can be left on the engine. The mot recently manufactured cases have a thicker aluminum boss where the dowel is, and the end of the boss has a slightly reduced hole size so the dowel can't (shouldn't?) get through it.

If you check my posts on the other thread, killer dowel pin can't kill anymore or something like that, I wrote up how to make a jig to drill a hole, tap to 5/16 x 18, and put in a 1" long socket head setscrew to keep the dowel from coming out.

I wish I could just say "don't worry" but (a) there have been enough of these pins fall out (I've heard of about a dozen cases; (b) the damage can be great, so all I can say is if I got another older Ram I would surely put in the setscrew. The most recent cases probably are OK, those made in the last year or maybe two years--they have the restriction that hopefully will keep the dowel in place.

Other than the large amount of work to remove the gear case cover, the front seal is a pain to position correctly and install over the crank nose. Having a Teflon coating it must be installed dry (put Loctite on the stamped cover to seal the seal casing to the gear case cover). I think I'd be very careful and try to drill and tap the gear housing without removing the cover, and keep aluminum shavings out of it by greasing the drill and tap when they are breaking through. Sure, it's better to remove the gear case cover, but if you are tempted to do nothing because of the large amount of work, you are probably better off with the shortcut installation if you (a) worry and (b) can't afford the time and cost associated with the pin falling out.

[Jeff H]

I'm to get a picture in my head on where the dowel pin is located.
The picture with the arrow with A. I take it thats where the dowel pin is located.

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95 Dodge Ram reg cab,2500,5spd,Tweaked & Peaked Cummins Diesel, MODS, K/N filter,dual exhaust 5'' tips,Lost muffler,turbo silencer, ACCESORIES,ISSPRO turbo & pyro. gauges. Shell Rotella in pan.Fleatgaurd filters. 140k.on the OD.
If you can smell this message. I Farted

[R.ebel]

Jeff H
Yep, location A is where the pin normally resides.

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1997 2500 SLT 4X4,5 spd,3.54's,Pacbrake,Rancho 9000's,Centerforce,K&N,Isspro,BD 300 HP pump, Jardine 4", 370's and 16cm housing, blocked dowel pin

[Jeff H]

Thank you much. R.ebel