Killer Dowel Pin Blocking Tab

[R.ebel]

I'm attaching an image of the dimensions for the KDP blocking tab for those who have yet to take care of this problem. A tab of this size was installed on my '97 and fit well. It may not fit all years but should be close. If memeory serves me I believe Joe Donnelly said some years of the 5.9 had a slight step in the gearcase in this area. The small end is designed to lock into the contours of the gearcase to prevent any rotation of the tab.
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[HEMI®Dart]

Thats R.ebel,

I did mine this morning. My pin moved out maybe 1/16". I used a piece of scrap steel I got @ work to make the tab. It's used to make cutting blades. Worked great. Real strong and not too thick.


Man, I'm lucky a had a mechanics mirror handy. You guys can see the pin from up top? No way could I see mine without a mirror. I left my fan shroud in place. Maybe thats part of the reason.


A quick question: Did any of you guys remove the plastic installation sleeve to prevent the seal from damage and rolling over to drive the seal into the cover? Does it go back in easy? I took mine out to drive in the seal. It fell on the floor, I didn't notice it and I STEPPED ON IT!. CRUSHED IT ! It was in pieces Totally useless.

I figured I would try to install the cover anyway. Yea right. The seal rolls over and pinches itself. I tried for half an hour to try to get it to go. No way in hell. Its junk now. Maybe I can find ANOTHER seal @ NAPA tomorrow. . All because of a .30 cent plastic sleeve.

[AWM]

I did mine last weekend,the plastic sleeve is reguired,never did figure out what the black seal thing was for,the hardest part for me was breaking loose the fan nut,finaly ended up clamping vicegrips on the front of the pulley then wedging a screwdriver through the jaws against the pulley ribs,done! no worrys now.

[Scary]

I just wish I knew what the hell I was doing I am having slipping problems with my tranny.

[RBrush]

AWM

The small Black Plastic Seal is a dust or dirt guard, and after the cover is in place, it goes over the end of the crank and up snug against the crank seal with the flat side out, and then the vibration damper goes on over that. One of the Techs at Portlands Cummins NW told me that.

Rich

[AWM]

thanks RB, being as most north Idaho roads are dirt,i'll be install it soon

[RottnDogue]

Hemi
How long did it take you to do?

Darren

[Turbo Thom]

I thought I was following you but got lost. Does any one have a pictorial of this fix?
Preston

[grtescpa]

Originally posted by AWM
I did mine last weekend,the plastic sleeve is reguired,never did figure out what the black seal thing was for,the hardest part for me was breaking loose the fan nut,finaly ended up clamping vicegrips on the front of the pulley then wedging a screwdriver through the jaws against the pulley ribs,done! no worrys now.

I have been collecting all the info I can about this dowl pin job. Could you tell me how you removed the fan clutch?
I see a nut on the shaft behind the clutch. Is that the nut everyone is talking about being hard to remove? Is it a left hand or right hand nut? Do I have to drain the coolant and remove the hoses? Did you have to remove any gears to get at the bolt used to washer tab the killer dowl?

[grtescpa]

Originally posted by R.ebel
I'm attaching an image of the dimensions for the KDP blocking tab for those who have yet to take care of this problem. A tab of this size was installed on my '97 and fit well. It may not fit all years but should be close. If memeory serves me I believe Joe Donnelly said some years of the 5.9 had a slight step in the gearcase in this area. The small end is designed to lock into the contours of the gearcase to prevent any rotation of the tab.
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<img src="http://www.cummins.com/na/images/en/menu/croll.gif" width="100" height="60" border="0" alt=""> <img src="http://www.mopar.com/img/catalog/P4876998.jpg" width="164" height="60" border="0" alt=""><img src="http://www.boschservice.com/images/boschlogo.gif" width="172" height="60" border="0" alt="">

What gauge sheet metal did you use for the blocking tab?

[HEMI®Dart]

Picked up a NEW crank seal this morning at NAPA. I was surprised they had it in stock . Its Chicago Rawhide p/n 24868. It has everything identicle to the Dodge & Cummins kits, except it does not come with the little black dust seal that goes on the crank snout before the vibration damper. So, it can't be that important. Cost was $24.37. About 10 buck less than the dealer.

Darren,

Pretty much a full day. Nothing goes quick on this. If I had to do it again, I would get the special jig. Remember 'CPFF' the Amsoil dealer with the Cummins powered ford at the Hooters meet?. He has the jig. He lives in Lebanon, CT. He had asked me if I wanted to use it. This may be the best route to go. Its up to you.


Turbo Thom & gretescpa,

Here are a bunch of threads relating to the dowel pin fix. Great tech info. There is a thread with pictures of the damage it can do if it falls out:

http://www.turbodieselregister.com/f...der=descending

gretescpa,

You are going to need a 36mm wrench to remove the fan. A 1 7/16 would work too. I went to sears and got the special wrench (thin) and a tool to hold the pulley (came in a kit). It was reasonably priced. You may need to take a long drift and give the hex nut behind the clutch a few good hits with a good sized hammer. It almost will come off be itself after that. You probably won't be able to loosen the nut without hitting it. I couldn't. It is a LEFT HAND thread.

You don't need to drain the coolant or take off the upper radiator hose. I didn't even need to take the shroud off. You can pull out the fan from the top if you are careful. You will need to push the upper radiator hose towards the firewall to make room for the clutch & fan assembly to come out.

You don't need to remove any gears under the gear cover to do the washer tab fix.

I used .030 thick steel to make my tab. It was like a metal sawzall blade type material. Hard.

[RottnDogue]

Bill
I know it's something I'll have to do but not sure I'm ready. I guess I'll do some bombing and get used to turning wrenches on it. That'll make me brave (or dumb) enough to think I can do it successfully.

Darren
Unless you want to help?

Or the next Hooters run

[HEMI®Dart]

Darren,

No problem. Unless your front crank seal is leaking engine oil, try to get in touch with CPPF, to borrow the jig. Its alot less hassle and just as good of a fix.

http://www.turbodieselregister.com/f...fo&userid=3517

[R.ebel]

HEMI®Dart, Sorry to hear of all your problems with your fix. I can't even imagine trying to work in there with the fan shroud in place. At lesst now you don't have to worry about a major malfunction, peace of mind is a good thing

grtescpa, The material I used was .063" titanium, which is major overkill [and hard to work with] I'm no engineer but I would think that any mild steel that is .060" or thicker should be suffient strenght wise. The prefered material would be titanium of course followed by 4130 chromolly, 6061-T6 aluminum or saw blade material such as HEMI®Dart used.

Just some thoughts on the drill jig method, though just as effective I don't like the possibilty of sending drill chips through the engine. Sure they will get filtered out of the oil, but after it goes through the oil pump. The tab method is without doubt the more difficult repair, but while the gearcase cover is removed you also have access to several bolts that can be removed and loctited. In particular the bolt right next to the dowel pin was finger loose on my truck. If you do elect to use the drill jig method be sure to NOT plug the crankcase vent tube when pressurising the block. The handle escapes me but he blew his seal on the side of the block (lifter gallery I believe) which then required the removal of his injector pump. JMHO, to each his own method.

[R.ebel]

Dragging this to the top, seems to be renewed interest in the topic.