This article originally published in Issue 60 of the Turbo Diesel Register.
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5.9 HP CR
THE ONGOING FUEL TRANSFER PUMP SAGA
(Or, Why Subscribe to the TDR?)
by Robert Patton, TDR Writer
Why subscribe to the TDR? ‘Cause the following can happen to you, your family, or your friends. In a time of unknown, you’ll need a solution. Here is the story.
Brother-in-law purchases your used truck. Brother-in-law is in your big city and ventures downtown. Brother-in-law calls from the side of the expressway located in the less desirable side of town. The truck will not run. He has not read the TDR.
You have.
You start with the basics.
What happened? – It just quit running.
Did you just fuel-up? – Nope.
Will it restart or is it completely dead? – It will run for a few seconds then it shuts off.
Okay, open the hood and find the fuel filter. Next bump the engine over and bring the key back to the run position. Do you hear the buzz of the fuel transfer pump? – Ah, okay, I did that and no buzz noise, just some clicking noises. By-the-way, what’s a fuel transfer pump?
Arrg…Obviously brother-in-law missed the 12-page article in Issue 56 about fuel transfer pumps. Since this part (which is the Achilles heel of a fine Cummins engine) can lead to a compromising and perhaps expensive engine-down situation, you’ll want to have a plan of action.
Don’t think that the fuel transfer pump problem won’t happen to you or someone you know. As you read in the Issue 56 article, it is not likely to cause the ’94-’98 owners too much trouble, as their fuel transfer pump is a mechanical unit that fails gradually.
The ’98.5-’02 owners: you desperately need to have a plan of action. There were about 450,000 trucks made in this series of 4.5 years. For these owners nothing has changed in the past year. You’ll want to read (reread) Issue 56.
The ’03-’04.5 owners: Previously it was thought that the revised electric fuel transfer pump for these trucks was a better design than the ’98.5-’02 pump. Well, brother-in-law’s transfer pump lasted 115K miles.
Armed with information in the TDR (and a $180 towing bill), the brother-in-law has some new-found options.
Postscript to the Issue 56 article, Page 74, “'03-'04.5 What to do?”
As you’ve previously read, the Mopar and Cummins parts networks have deleted the replacement fuel transfer pump from their inventories. Issue 56 was written in April ’07. At that time the only plug-and-play option was a part number FP943 that was offered by Delphi at a retail price of about $450.
Since that time we have found that the FP943 pump is made by one source—the same source that made the pump for Mopar and Cummins: Carter division of Federal-Mogul. I can only imagine their surprise when Mopar and Cummins scrapped-out their inventories last spring. Lots of extra inventory?
Perhaps so. The same part is not only showing up in a brown Delphi box, it is now available in a white Fel Pro box. We’ve closely inspected the pump and its contents. They are the same. And, available in stock.
More good news…the price has substantially dropped. How about less than $200?
For those that want a plug-n-play option (or spare part), there is availability at several vendors. Diesel Injection, Scheid diesel and Geno’s Garage are locations that I am aware of.
So, ’03-’04.5 owners it is time to purchase a spare. Be ready for the inevitable!
have a plan of action. There were about 450,000
trucks made in this series of 4.5 years. For
these owners nothing has changed in the past year.
You’ll want to read (reread) Issue 56.
'03-'04.5 Fuel Transfer Pump Installation
Following the well-written instructions that were in the Fel Pro “M4089602” box, the installation went on and off without a hitch. The following is a combination of the instruction sheet directive and some common-sense tips.
• Push the cables and wiring to the side of the fuel filter to make the transfer pump easier to access.
• Crawl underneath the truck and slip a heater hose (5/8” inside diameter) over the existing fuel filter drain hose.
• Open the fuel drain valve at the fuel filter housing. Drain the fuel and close the drain valve.
Extend the fuel filter drain hose to save the aggravation of
having the
fuel drain onto the frame which is caused by the exisitng short drain hose.
• Back under the truck: Check to be sure that the orientation of the new fuel line matches the route of the fuel line that was removed. Snap the fuel line quick-connect onto its fitting.
Pinch the outer tangs of the fuel line quick-fitting
to separate the rubber hose from the hard fuel line.
• Back under the truck: Check to be sure that the orientation of the new fuel line matches the route of the fuel line that was removed. Snap the fuel line quick-connect onto its fitting.
Unplug the water-in-fuel sensor. Note how the wires and cables
have been pushed to the side of the fuel filter.
• Remove the four 5mm hex head bolts that hold the transfer pump to the filter housing.
• Remove the transfer pump and confirm that the sealing O-ring is also removed from the filter housing.
Do not forget to remove the old O-ring. An O-ring on top of
an O-ring doesn't work too well. Ask me how I know.
• Assemble the new components to match the routing of the existing fuel pump and fuel line.
With the old transfer pump and fuel line removed you can see the
orientation of the new fuel lines and primary fuel filter.
• Install the new O-ring to the fuel pump. Install the fuel pump into the filter housing. Position the fuel pump and push into place.
• Install the four 5mm hex head bolts (61 inch-lbs.).
• Connect the electrical connector to the fuel pump.
• Back under the truck: Check to be sure that the orientation of the new fuel line matches the route of the fuel line that was removed. Sanp the fuel line quick-connect onto its fitting.
The installed orientation of the new fuel filter.
• Do a double check of your work. It is time to start the truck. Bump the starter, but do not attempt a complete start cycle. Return the key to the run position and listen for the fuel pump to operate. it will cycle for 15-20 seconds. Repeat the bump/ return to run technique for 4-5 cycles to be sure that air has been purged out of the engine’s self-priming fuel system.
• Crank the truck and check for leaks.
You’re finished.
! am pleased to report the success of this project and that ’03-’04.5 owners have a replacement part from the aftermarket. This plug-and-play option means you don’t have to use the factory suggested repair technique—drop the fuel tank (labor estimate $300-400) and add the ’05-current fuel pump kit that goes into the fuel tank (parts estimate $400).
This article updates the TDR Issue 56 article. Thus, we add another chapter to “The Final Answer, Perfect Transfer Pump” article.