Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) Max HP for transfer case

Can anyone tell me what HP they have put through a 241DLD transfer case? without grenading it... .

 

I'm looking to get to around 500HP & want a reliable T-case?

 

The guys with pulling trucks ought to be jumping right in on this...

You really should be asking about torque ratings, though, not horsepower.

There was once a list of t-cases and their ratings posted here. The NP271 is the strongest of the aluminum case/chain drives, I believe, and is rated to handle what you want I think. The NP241DHD is pretty tough once the snap ring issue is addressed. And I'll bet there are even plenty of 500hp NV241DLD trucks out there, too.

Personally, I'm Old School and prefer cast iron and gears over aluminum and chains. That ratings chart I mentioned had the legendary NP205 rated WAY too low. They are the most popular heavy duty t-case ever built for good reason, and can be found in some very radical trucks. The 1st gen Cummins dodges had them. So did every other truck maker.

My goal is to mate an NP205 (ford driver side drop) to the NV5600 in my shop and bolt them both into my '96. It should be a fairly straightforward upgrade over my NV4500 and NP241DLD and will be a nice combo behind this Cummins, I think.

I cannot for the life of me understand why a truck spec'ed with 1-ton suspension (on a srw 2500), a dana 80 rear and a psuedo-Dana 60 front axle and Cummins and manual transmission would even be considered a good candidate for the 241 Light Duty t-case when the 241HD was available. . ? Makes no sense at all. But that's how the factory put mine together. That said, my power output is stock, but I do plow snow and have larger tires and, so far, have had no problems with the NP241DLD.

You could just run what you have and see if it breaks. It might surprise you and hold together.

 

I know of 2 trucks running over 550 hp that are running the 241 DLD cases. One is launched routinely in 4wd, and runs low 12's in the 1/4 mile. The other has been winning local pulls all summer long. Neither one of these guys babies anything. I have never seen one but I have heard that very few of the earliest 2nd gens had 205 cases. I would love to see one...

 

I have also been interested in a NP205 but cannot find a good way to create a driver's side drop adapter? I would think this would be a good piece for Advanced Adapters to build?... but they show nothing on their list of kits. I even considered a divorced unit from an older Furd but that get's complicated for a daily driver and I don't care to add the addition stub shaft and more u-joints. Sounds like high speed vibration problems to me.



One BIG advantage would be if you damage the rear drive shaft, the front end can bring you home. Personally I never liked the out-put sleeve design of the chain cases. I prefer the old school fixed yoke rear out-put design.



You cannot beat the NP 205 cast iron, gear driven case for strength.

 

They make a slip yoke eliminator kit for the DLD. I wanted one badly, but just scored a rebuilt DHD that is going in, and they don't make one for the DHD.

JB Conversions, Inc.

 

They read your post and they worked FAST, Texis:



50-0220 | Engine & Transmission Conversion Adapters - Advance Adapters



Tell 'em "Scott, the guy from Iowa who keeps bugging them to make the danged adapter plate . 600" inch thicker so he won't have to butcher his NV5600 output shaft by . 600", sent ya!! :-laf



I've got this all planned out, even the speedo conversion to digital since my '96 has a t-case sender instead of in the rear axle. I also found a REALLY slick cable-operated twin stick shifter to make that part a breeze to mount. Oh yeah. I gots my wish list alright... starting with "I wish I had the money to make this truck what dodge failed to, right now, instead of waiting and buying everything a piece at a time. "



BTW: You got an oil well in your backyard that you aren't using?

 

Great for NV4500 owners... but I still don't see anything for an auto.



I did not know about the slip yoke eliminator for these cases. I suppose I should say "thanks", but you more than likely just cost me a bunch of money.

 

Problem with the NP205 is the gears aren't as deep as a Dana 300 or NVG271/273. I'd love for a 3 or 4 speed transfer case to come out with at least 4:1 low range, 1:1, and at least a 30% overdrive as well. Wish Stak or Atlas would build one like that.

 

What in the world would you do with a 4:1 low range?

You can always mate the gearbox part of a NP203 to an NP205 for a doubler like so many hardcore offroaders have done, but lets be realistic:

With the down 'n dirty torque of a Cummins and the low 1st gear of your transmission, and the nearly 2:1 low gear of the NP205 you could pull a house down. Even pushing a Boss V plow in the inverted (scoop) position uphill full of wet, heavy snow, I have never needed the low side of my t-case and my Cummins is stock and my gearing is 3. 54:1.

Maybe a rockcrawler needs something lower, but then you could always go to lower rearend gearing.

What is stronger: aluminum or steel? Gears or chain? Gears don't stretch, but those chains sure do. Steel/cast iron doesn't flex, crack or break nearly as easily as aluminum.

The small difference in the lowside gearing is a trade I will happily make for that increase in strength and reliability.

 

The low gear T-cases are good for rocks and such, but really cannot get the tires spinning fast enough to adequately clean the tires in mud. IMHO I would say it depends on where you live, and how you use the truck.



My auto has no granny-low and that makes a huge difference. 4H+granny is already a compounded gear set. I owned a K5 with an SM465 and the 4L + granny was completely un-usablable, just too low for anything I ran across.



If I'm dreamin, a 2. 5:1 t-case would work well with the auto for me... but no lower for this part of the country.

 

Yeah, my favorite wheeling is in the Colorado Rockies doing technical rock crawling. Being able to have enough torque to turn 150 lbs of wheel and 37" tire at each corner without throttling so hard you spin and slide and crash is essential. Most mountain trails have mud holes from glacial melting so having a dual range is helpful. The compression from deeper gearing makes dangerous descents a great deal more controllable as well. I don't need deeper than 2. 72:1 often but there are enough times I'd use it that it would be a worthwhile investment.

I do a lot of driving in snow that can be a few feet deep and getting going against it after snow has settled can take some throttle as well. I wish I had 3:54 or higher ring and pinions on the highway but always wish I had deeper gears off road. Having more options would make any vehicle better suited for different terrains. An extra, synchronized overdrive and underdrive transfer case seems like something that would be an in demand item for the aftermarket.

I've only heard of maybe 3 modern aluminum or magnesium NVG273s breaking and I know at least one was on a pavement race track. The way I've abused mine in a 10,000 lb 4x4 I am extremely impressed and have no worries about it being chain driven. But its the only chain driven that I'll vouch for that way. Electronic sifting is nice too, no clanking levers or linkage to readjust.

 

IIRC, Texis, there are aftermarket lower-gear kits available for the NP205 that would put you at least that low.

Heck, my K30 with a gasser 454, TH400 auto, and NP205 has 3. 73 gearing and has never been too high-geared for Iowa mud and snow. I do use 4-Lo more often when offroad than in my diesel dodge. That was with 35" BFG Mud terrains. I recently needed new 16. 5" tires and bought a set of 37" Wrangler military Humvee takeoffs (those deep-treaded puppies are TALL!!), so I might find a little more use for the NP205 Lo-range now.

I guess it all comes down to what you need the truck to do and how much tradeoff in highway cruising ability you are willing to do.