Thanks Thanks:  0 Likes Likes:  0 Dislikes Dislikes:  0
Results 1 to 7 of 7

Thread: 95 Dodge Ram 2500 2wd Front end

  1. #1

    User Info Menu

    95 Dodge Ram 2500 2wd Front end

    Hello guys. . Thank you for this forum. Got my truck in 06 with 50,000 miles . . now have 135,000. Just replaced the steering shaft with a borgeson. Found loose column bushing and within a few minutes I found Rock Solid on here. Great. . just ordered the kit.

    Now my question. Going to rebuild the front end. . upper a ram bushings. . ball joints. . . . idler arm. . pitman arm. . . and what ever else is loose. What kind of front end components do you guys like. . moog. . . etc????

    Thanks Dave Roberson
    Last edited by AzDave; 07-29-2012 at 03:32 PM.

  2. #2

    User Info Menu

    Any name brand parts are good. Rock Auto has some good prices and might still be giving TDR discounts. However, I'm confused why you need new componants with only 135k on the clock. My original ball joints were still good at 500k but I replaced them anyway. I had ordered them, bought a press kit and had the front tires off when I discovered that one of the tie rod ends was the source of my problem. I replaced it, and it's opposing one, then went ahead with the ball joints. The replacements and the other two original tie rod ends are currently in the truck.
    97 3500, 2wd, G56 6-speed, 3.54 gears, Austin Injection custom fuel plate for speedin' it up and a Jacobs e-brake for slowin' it down. Member of the 1.2 million mile club. Began the second million 8/24/13 Rebuilt engine installed at 946k.

  3. #3

    User Info Menu

    I'm with you Gary. Unless the boots are busted, balls should be fine. As for the A-arm bushings, my totalled '95 had almost 400K and there was nothing wrong with the bushings.

    Do what you'd like, but I'd replace what's worn and leave the rest. I used Moog. Napa Chassis Parts are good, made by Spicer, but more expensive. Stay away from Mevotech and other house brands.

    Mid-Tenn TDR - RIP
    TOTALLED OUT 1995 2500 RC 2wd 5-speed
    FINALLY DRIVING BUT NOT FINISHED 1998.5 QCSB Auto with the '95 12V, Goerend tranny, #10 plate, DD3's, 181's, HE351CW, 60# springs, AutoMeter guages, tabbed KDP, MPRP Exhaust

  4. #4

    User Info Menu

    Upper a arm bushings are are torn on drivers side. . . . lower ball joints move have 1/8th play. . . idler arm wasted. . . 4 inches up and down movement with pry bar. . . upper ball joints ok but I will change them anyway wile it is apart. . pitman arm slight play not real bad but while I am in there. . why not.

    After just driving 2000 miles in my buddy's 2003 ram I was going to upgrade. . . but when I got home and cranked up the old 12 valve I could not bring myself to sell it so I am going over it front to back. . . this year all mechanical. . next year interior and paint. .

    I own my own shop. . Alternative Auto Care, so I have the rack,press, tools etc. Just wanted opinion on brands of parts preferred. . .

    Thanks. . Dave

  5. #5

    User Info Menu

    Dave I used Spicer ball joints when I redid the ones on my '98 2wd at about 180,000 miles, they seemed very good quality. I had one definitely getting worn and did them all at the same time. While working over the front end don't forget about the front wheel bearings since they're the old style clean and repack variety until the 2000 model.
    '98.5 Club Cab 2wd SWB, Garrett BB Stage 3 turbo, Polydyn tubular header, Jammer I injectors, 5" exhaust
    Truck 2: '96 CC 4x4 LB, 5-spd 3.54 LSD, PDR 175 pump, Hybrid 35/40, DDP Stage IIs, SB 13" Clutch 472,344 mi.

    In memory of Rob Hanson- July 2005
    and Nowel "HVAC" Thomas- Dec 2003

  6. #6

    User Info Menu

    I am one of those guys who cleans and repacks wheel bearings every front brake job. . . Just ordered Hawk pads. . bilsteens. . brite box. . . apps noise isolator. . . mud guards. . . cup holder. . and some other stuff from Geno's this morning. Thanks for the input. . . Dave

  7. #7

    User Info Menu

    On mine, we did new lower a-arms that came preloaded with balljoints from chrysler, but then for the idler we used moog. I now need to do the steering box and shaft.
    '95 2500 Cummins 5spd, Reg Cab + McKinley Custom Conversion, TST #5, Four inch exhaust, 3rd gen power tow mirrors

    2014 Dodge Challenger RT Blacktop Edition, Six Speed Manual

    2012 Ford Flex

    2004 Sprinter 297bhs 5ver

    1967 Subaru Turbo Powered VW Beetle Build Thread

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts