Not a hassle at all. A SRW to DRW can be done in half the time it takes to negotiate a deal on a new or used truck.
Originally Posted by sabersix
Oasis ABS sensors are the same,. . . . ask me how I know.
SRW to DRW using factory parts is all plug in play. The hardest part of the entire conversion is removing and replacing the bed. If you have access to a front loader tractor or forklift, this becomes easy. The front axles extenders are a pain the butt to tighten to spec. Crows foot is handy here. Basically, if you plans ahead, have the required tools and work steadily, the conversion is a days project.
Step one: remove (4) bolts that fasten bed to frame. Remove taillights and disconnect wire harness and ground strap. Remove bed.
Step two: raise and support the frame between rear of cab and front of rear axle. Support rear axle with hydraulic jack. Remove rear tires/wheels. Unbolt and remove brake calipers from axle and tie to frame with zip ties - do not disconnect fluid lines. Reinstall tires/wheels.
Step three: disconnect driveline from axle and suspend it from the frame. Disconnect emergency parking brake cable/s, unclip axle breather tube from crossmember and disconnect ABS sensor. Remove u-bolts that tie axle to suspension springs. Slowly lower axle to the ground and roll axle backwards out from under the frame.
Step four: raise and support front axle. Remove SRW tires/wheels. Install front axle extenders using (quality) hardware. It helps to have a buddy apply the brakes via pedal while you cuss and moan trying to torque hardware to specs. I used a long handle clicker torque wrench and crows foot. Install DRW wheels and lower vehicle.
Install your DRW equipment in the reverse order of steps (1) through (3) and your done.
2004.5 2500 Dually Conversion, 4x4, 6spd, Quad Cab, Southbend, PSM AirBox Mod, AFE ProGuard, CFM+ intake, CoolBlue, CAT in-place, IISPro Gauges, BD Exhaust Brake, PacBrake AirBags, Heater Treater, Lukes Links, 09 steering linkage/pitman arm, BD steering brace, Amsoil, FASS Titanium.