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  1. #1

    2003 Quad Cab Short Bed SRW to DRW conversion

    I am looking at converting my 2003 ram from a SRW to a DRW. From reading all of the regarding this subject I have two choices.



    1) Purchase a conversion kit from a company like Arrowcraft. Not sure of cost but will call tomorrow to find out.

    2) Swap my SRW for a DRW rear axle assembly. Install hub extenders on the front and install a custom made flatbed. If I decide to stay with 3. 73 gears.

    3) Same as two except swap in the front axle from the DRW donor with 4. 11 gears.



    I read in one of the forum posts that the ABS programming is different for SRW and DRW. Is this true and if so can the ECM be reprogrammed?



    I need to convert after weighing my truck/trailer combo. My truck weighed in at 8140, my trailer weighed in at 11360. When I am connected to my 3 Horse Trailer my truck weighs in at 11380.



    I live in Colorado Springs if anyone within a reasonable distance is selling axles from a DRW.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Location
    San Diego, CA
    Posts
    64
    Alternative choice:

    Sell SRW and buy DRW. Seems like much less hassle.
    2009 Ram 3500 DRW MC Auto

    2007 Ram 2500 MC 6.7L Auto - SOLD

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Dec 2005
    Location
    USA
    Posts
    1,653
    Quote Originally Posted by sabersix View Post
    Alternative choice:

    Sell SRW and buy DRW. Seems like much less hassle.
    Not a hassle at all. A SRW to DRW can be done in half the time it takes to negotiate a deal on a new or used truck.

    Oasis ABS sensors are the same,. . . . ask me how I know.

    SRW to DRW using factory parts is all plug in play. The hardest part of the entire conversion is removing and replacing the bed. If you have access to a front loader tractor or forklift, this becomes easy. The front axles extenders are a pain the butt to tighten to spec. Crows foot is handy here. Basically, if you plans ahead, have the required tools and work steadily, the conversion is a days project.

    Step one: remove (4) bolts that fasten bed to frame. Remove taillights and disconnect wire harness and ground strap. Remove bed.

    Step two: raise and support the frame between rear of cab and front of rear axle. Support rear axle with hydraulic jack. Remove rear tires/wheels. Unbolt and remove brake calipers from axle and tie to frame with zip ties - do not disconnect fluid lines. Reinstall tires/wheels.

    Step three: disconnect driveline from axle and suspend it from the frame. Disconnect emergency parking brake cable/s, unclip axle breather tube from crossmember and disconnect ABS sensor. Remove u-bolts that tie axle to suspension springs. Slowly lower axle to the ground and roll axle backwards out from under the frame.

    Step four: raise and support front axle. Remove SRW tires/wheels. Install front axle extenders using (quality) hardware. It helps to have a buddy apply the brakes via pedal while you cuss and moan trying to torque hardware to specs. I used a long handle clicker torque wrench and crows foot. Install DRW wheels and lower vehicle.

    Install your DRW equipment in the reverse order of steps (1) through (3) and your done.
    2004.5 2500 Dually Conversion, 4x4, 6spd, Quad Cab, Southbend, PSM AirBox Mod, AFE ProGuard, CFM+ intake, CoolBlue, CAT in-place, IISPro Gauges, BD Exhaust Brake, PacBrake AirBags, Heater Treater, Lukes Links, 09 steering linkage/pitman arm, BD steering brace, Amsoil, FASS Titanium.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Apr 2008
    Location
    Bremerton, WA
    Posts
    616
    Quote Originally Posted by JHawes View Post
    . . . It helps to have a buddy apply the brakes via pedal while you cuss and moan trying to torque hardware to specs. . .
    I would wait until the rear end is complete, just for the idiot check of the rear brakes being re-installed before you try to use the brakes for the front-end work.
    2006 Mega Cab Dually, Hand Shaker, BD Brake, 3.73 LSD.

  5. #5
    I thought about doing this to my old 05 a couple years ago, after finding the cost to do it right was 5-6 grand, I passed, drove it for one more year and bought a new one
    2012 Ram 3500 2 WD Laramie CC, DRW, Max Tow (SOLD)
    2005 Dodge Ram Laramie 4X4 3500 SRW (SOLD)

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Jun 2001
    Location
    South Plains of Texas
    Posts
    17,205
    Oasis (is that your name?)

    You don't have the information you need to make that decision. You didn't weigh your truck's rear axle unloaded then loaded. Your rear axle weight is all that really matters unless you are viewed as a commercial hauler required to cross scales. In that case, whether you need to worry about your truck's GVWR is not clear yet.

    Take your truck back to the scale and weigh front and rear axles separately then hook up your trailer and weigh truck front and rear axles loaded again as well as trailer axles (all together). Armed with that information add the total carrying capacity of your truck's rear tires together to determine rear axle load capacity or rear GAWR (rear) on your door post VIN and GVWR tag and compare your loaded rear axle weight.

    Your truck's rear axle and rear tires are going to be loaded to their absolute maximum rating or more likely beyond with the trailer you listed but you don't know how much overloaded. I am a true believer in the many advantages of towing heavy trailers with dual-wheeled trucks but . . .

    If you want to get by cheaply you would be wiser to install a set of four 19. 5" wheels and a new set of brand name (not ChiComm) 19. 5" tires of sufficient size and load rating to leave a margin at the rear of your truck. The correct set of 19. 5" wheels and tires can provide adequate weight carrying capacity to make your truck legal and safe to tow the trailer you mentioned.

    Dual rear wheels always provide more carrying capacity than larger singles and duallies are always safer and more stable for towing in all conditions but 19. 5" wheels and tires could serve you well until you're ready to trade your truck for a dually.
    Harvey Barlow

    2008 Ram 3500 SLT QC & Chassis w/ CM bed
    2007 HitchHiker Discover America 32 LKTG
    2010 Goldwing XM/Nav

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Dec 2005
    Location
    USA
    Posts
    1,653
    Quote Originally Posted by JHumphries View Post
    I would wait until the rear end is complete, just for the idiot check of the rear brakes being re-installed before you try to use the brakes for the front-end work.
    ^^THIS^^

    Got a headache trying to remember the steps from 2/3 years ago.

    Thanks.
    2004.5 2500 Dually Conversion, 4x4, 6spd, Quad Cab, Southbend, PSM AirBox Mod, AFE ProGuard, CFM+ intake, CoolBlue, CAT in-place, IISPro Gauges, BD Exhaust Brake, PacBrake AirBags, Heater Treater, Lukes Links, 09 steering linkage/pitman arm, BD steering brace, Amsoil, FASS Titanium.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Dec 2005
    Location
    USA
    Posts
    1,653
    Quote Originally Posted by HBarlow View Post
    Oasis (is that your name?)

    You don't have the information you need to make that decision. You didn't weigh your truck's rear axle unloaded then loaded. Your rear axle weight is all that really matters unless you are viewed as a commercial hauler required to cross scales. In that case, whether you need to worry about your truck's GVWR is not clear yet.

    Take your truck back to the scale and weigh front and rear axles separately then hook up your trailer and weigh truck front and rear axles loaded again as well as trailer axles (all together). Armed with that information add the total carrying capacity of your truck's rear tires together to determine rear axle load capacity or rear GAWR (rear) on your door post VIN and GVWR tag and compare your loaded rear axle weight.

    Your truck's rear axle and rear tires are going to be loaded to their absolute maximum rating or more likely beyond with the trailer you listed but you don't know how much overloaded. I am a true believer in the many advantages of towing heavy trailers with dual-wheeled trucks but . . .

    If you want to get by cheaply you would be wiser to install a set of four 19. 5" wheels and a new set of brand name (not ChiComm) 19. 5" tires of sufficient size and load rating to leave a margin at the rear of your truck. The correct set of 19. 5" wheels and tires can provide adequate weight carrying capacity to make your truck legal and safe to tow the trailer you mentioned.
    Dual rear wheels always provide more carrying capacity than larger singles and duallies are always safer and more stable for towing in all conditions but 19. 5" wheels and tires could serve you well until you're ready to trade your truck for a dually.

    I thought about the route in the beginning. If I hadn't had trouble with the Craiglist DRW axle I bought, my DRW conversion would have only been $3800 so I spent a few extra bucks and went DRW instead.
    2004.5 2500 Dually Conversion, 4x4, 6spd, Quad Cab, Southbend, PSM AirBox Mod, AFE ProGuard, CFM+ intake, CoolBlue, CAT in-place, IISPro Gauges, BD Exhaust Brake, PacBrake AirBags, Heater Treater, Lukes Links, 09 steering linkage/pitman arm, BD steering brace, Amsoil, FASS Titanium.

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Location
    Northern Illinois
    Posts
    1,406
    Harvey makes a good point. Rickson wheels offers the package of 19. 5 wheels and a variety of 19. 5 tires ( makes, sizes, load range, etc). Prepare to pay around $800 per tire/wheel times 4. You MIGHT find used ones cheaper if you look long enough. Another member here went this route (Barry maybe?) and seemed to be pleased with the handling while towing.
    Just an option.
    2006 2500 Quad cab short bed, EFILive, ATS Aurora plus 4000 Compound turbos, Goerend all billet trans, SpynTek Shorty Free Spin hubs, CFM+ intake, Eaton Tru-Trac., Nitto Crosstek HD 285/70/17, Bilstein 5100s, Edge Insight monitor, ATP valve cover and oil pan cover.

  10. #10
    eeoasis, I don't know where you located, but I have everthing to do the conversion. Scraping out a 04 1 ton DRW 4X4

    P. M. me if you want info. . . . . . . .
    92,2500,4X4 ,5spd,CTD 93,3500,4X4,5spd,CTD,My Favorite
    2001,2500,2X4, 6spd,CTD,Our Cruiser/Out of State puller
    2005,2500,4X4,CC,Auto,CTD, Wifes Truck
    New 04 2500 ,4X4, CC,CTD,6 speed , Had 18K when bought in 7/12

  11. #11
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Location
    Auburn, WA
    Posts
    223
    Quote Originally Posted by HBarlow View Post
    If you want to get by cheaply you would be wiser to install a set of four 19. 5" wheels and a new set of brand name (not ChiComm) 19. 5" tires of sufficient size and load rating to leave a margin at the rear of your truck. The correct set of 19. 5" wheels and tires can provide adequate weight carrying capacity to make your truck legal and safe to tow the trailer you mentioned.
    HB, I am curious, what is your opinion on how much weight the SRW axle in my 07 QC 3500, auto, 4x4 would take, if I switched to the 19. 5 Ricksons. I currently am under the ratings as posted on the door tag, and run stock wheels and tires.
    This is what it looks like, I bumper pull a Jayco 31 BHS.
    Front 4460
    Rear 5160
    TT 7740

    The door tag rates the rear axle at 6200.

    I have thot about switching to a fiver in a few years, and really don't want to give up my truck. Currently sitting at about 45,000 miles, and paid for.
    2007 6.7 4x4 3500 QC LWB SRW Inferno Red

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